Paris, France

The memory of my first arrival in Paris, France, is etched so clearly in my mind, it’s hard to believe it happened more than three decades ago.

It was early morning, and as the plane dipped lower, the city slowly emerged from the shadows of night, welcoming me with its quiet beauty. And there, in the distance, the Eiffel Tower smiled at me.

My heart skipped a beat — maybe two. I felt overwhelmed by a strange yet comforting sense of belonging. In that moment, I knew I had arrived home.

From that day forward, every time I return to Paris, as the plane dips below the clouds and the city unfolds beneath me, that same feeling washes over me — as if I'm coming back home.

Over the years, I’ve filled folders and hard drives with reminders of visits: cocktail coasters from favorite cafés, business cards from tiny boutiques, postcards scribbled with quick notes and cherished memories. Recently, I’ve had the time to revisit these treasures — and in doing so, I’ve reconnected with everything I love about one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

I thought it was the perfect time to share some of those memories with you — along with a few suggestions and stories that, I hope, will help you fall in love with Paris, too.

I like to approach travel with the mindset of: “If I lived here, how would I live?” Of course, on my first trip to Paris, I did all the classic must-see sights — the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Notre-Dame. But now, when I visit, I take a much more casual approach. I let each day unfold naturally. Sure, I might revisit some of those iconic places, but more often I seek out new-to-me adventures — the kind that make a city feel lived in, not just visited.

In 2019, I had the chance to spend two weeks in Paris, exploring solo. Lenny joined me for the first few days before heading off to Morocco, and for the first time, I had the city entirely to myself. I decided to treat the experience as if I actually lived there. Each day, I ventured into a different arrondissement or neighborhood, intentionally stepping outside my comfort zone. I found so many incredible things — tucked-away cafés, quiet parks, quirky shops, and unexpected views — and I can’t wait to share them with you.

Paris has a long, fascinating history, dating back to around 250 BC, when it was settled by a Gallic tribe known as the Parisii. The original settlement was located on what is now Île de la Cité, the small island in the Seine River that still serves as the city's historic heart. Even today, the Seine is a working river and remains central to the rhythm of life in Paris.

What I find most remarkable is how little the soul of the city has changed over the decades. Yes, there’s modernity and growth, but the old-world charm that Paris was built on still lingers around every corner. It oozes romance, elegance, and pride in its deep-rooted history.

There’s something for everyone here. And honestly, if you don’t find yourself smiling — at least once or twice — during your time in Paris, you might not be looking in the right places... or perhaps you’re not approaching travel with an open heart.

Flights

One of the questions I’m asked most often is, “What flight should I take to Paris?”

Since I live in the Bay Area, I always try to fly non-stop whenever possible. The older I get, the less patience I have for layovers — unless the airfare is too good to pass up (and even then, I usually weigh the savings against the hassle). I’m also loyal to my mileage program, so that often guides my choices.

That said, my honest answer is: Take what works best for you. Consider your budget, schedule, airline preferences, and how much energy you want to spend navigating connections. Non-stops are ideal, especially for longer international flights — less chance of delays, missed connections, or lost luggage.

I also prefer to travel during the off-season — late fall, winter, or early spring. The flights are usually cheaper, the crowds are lighter, and Paris takes on a quiet magic in the cooler months. I tend to avoid Europe in the summer unless there's a compelling reason to go.

As for airports, I prefer flying only into Charles de Gaulle. It's easy to hop on the RER B train and head straight into the heart of Paris. Within an hour of landing, you can be sipping coffee at a café, shaking off jet lag the Parisian way. That being said our last flight to Paris was on the French Bee, which we LOVED, and it was really easy to get from Orly to the city center as well.

What to Pack

I often get asked what to pack when heading to Paris—after all, it is one of the fashion capitals of the world. But here’s the thing: I’m not exactly a high-fashion kind of gal. I’d describe my style as casually chic—comfortable, polished, and practical for wandering cobblestone streets or lingering over a glass of wine.

Truth be told, I tend to pack the same core items for just about every destination. Here is my winter packing list (tried and true), and I’ll be updating with a summer version after my next warm-weather trip.

Now that I’m home after two months of traveling, I’ve realized something… I wear the same handful of items from my winter packing list all the time. Travel really simplifies things. So much so that I’m currently clearing out my closets and drawers as I write this. If it didn’t make the suitcase—or I didn’t miss it while I was away—it’s probably getting donated.

Money

While credit cards are widely accepted throughout the U.S., I’ve noticed that more and more places in the EU prefer cash—or in some cases, won’t accept credit cards issued by U.S. banks at all. I usually bring around €500 with me (there’s a local bank here that exchanges foreign currency), which is great to have on hand when I arrive so I’m not scrambling to find an ATM right away. If I need more cash during the trip, I use my bank card at an ATM that partners with my U.S. bank. For example, Bank of America partners with BNP Paribas in France, so we don’t get charged any withdrawal fees. Be sure to double-check with your bank before you leave. ** see Paris Metro **

Getting from the Airport to City Center Paris

When arriving in Paris, we usually opt for public transportation to get from the airport to the city center, aiming to get as close as possible to where we're staying. Both Charles de Gaulle (CDG) and Orly (ORY) airports offer easy connections to the Metro and RER networks.

A helpful tool we use is the Bonjour RATP website, which lets you enter your arrival airport and terminal along with your final destination in Paris. It will suggest the best routes using public transit.

From Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG)

The RER B train is the most straightforward and efficient way to reach the city center. Trains run regularly, and the journey takes about 35–40 minutes to central stops like Gare du Nord, Châtelet–Les Halles, and Saint-Michel Notre-Dame.

From Orly Airport (ORY)

Orly is now connected to Metro Line 14, which offers a fast, direct route to central Paris in around 30 minutes. It’s a newer option that’s streamlined airport-city transport.

Ride-Share Options

If you’re traveling with a lot of luggage or arriving late, Uber and Bolt are convenient alternatives. I’ve used Uber in Paris a few times, and rides from either airport typically cost around €50. I haven’t used Bolt in Paris yet, but I’ve heard good things about it.

Language

By now, I should be fluent in French… but I’m not — and that’s okay. I know enough to get by in daily situations, and honestly, that’s more than enough for most visits. While English is widely spoken in Paris, learning a few key French phrases can go a long way. It shows respect and often opens doors (and hearts).

In French culture — as it should be in all cultures — it’s important to always say “Bonjour” when entering a store, café, restaurant, or really anywhere. A warm smile and a friendly Bonjour will get you far. Don’t forget to say Au revoir when you leave, and use Excusez-moi (instead of “Hey”) when you need to ask for help.

There are plenty of helpful language apps available to make this easier. Two of my go-to favorites are Google Translate (super helpful for menus and signs) and Duolingo, which is a fun way to pick up basic phrases or refresh what you may have once learned in school. Every year I tell myself I’m going to finally take a proper French course — I studied it in high school and definitely need to brush up.

Whether or not you’re fluent, a smile, a polite bonjour, and a bit of effort always go a long way in Paris.

Books for Paris

I’m not your typical tourist and tend to skip the traditional guidebooks like Frommer’s or Rick Steves. Instead, I look for books that offer something different — hidden gems, offbeat spots, or deeper dives into neighborhoods that are often overlooked. Since I’ve been to Paris a number of times, I want guides that help me discover something new.

Here are three books I’ve leaned on during recent trips:

• The Little(r) Museums of Paris – A charming guide that highlights lesser-known museums that are absolutely worth visiting. Perfect for returning travelers who want to go beyond the Louvre.

• Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide – One of my favorite finds. I used this book to pick a different neighborhood each day — ones I hadn’t explored before — and ventured out with it in hand. It’s both beautiful and practical.

• The Authentic Bistros of Paris - os one of those enduring classics that never goes out of style. Though it was published years ago, it remains my go-to guide when I’m craving the comfort and charm of traditional French bistro fare. It’s an insider’s look into the heart of Parisian dining — full of character, history, and, of course, delicious food.

Getting Around Paris

On Foot
Honestly, the best way to experience Paris is on your own two feet. The city is incredibly walkable — even in the chilly winter months, strolling around is surprisingly pleasant. Walking lets you soak in the little details: hidden courtyards, street art, and those random cafes perfect for a quick coffee break. Plus, you never know what charming corner you’ll stumble across when you’re just wandering.

Paris Metro
When you need to get somewhere faster, the Metro is your best friend. It’s affordable, extensive, and the quickest way to zip across town. I even use it for airport transfers — as long as my flights aren’t too late, it’s reliable and easy. A tip: save your small change from meals and shopping because Metro tickets are perfect for that exact fare.

If you’re planning to be in Paris for more than five days and will rely heavily on public transit, I highly recommend the Visite Travel Pass. It covers unlimited travel in Zones 1 to 3, including airports, Disneyland, and Versailles. It’s a great way to keep things simple and economical. Lastly be sure to double check which exit route to take to get to where you are going. There may be a few different options.

Batobus
After my own two feet, Batobus is my favorite way to get around. A French friend introduced me to this water taxi when I was 30, and back then, only locals seemed to know about it! It’s a beautiful way to travel between many of Paris’s top attractions, and a welcome alternative to the sometimes crowded and less-than-fresh metro, especially in summer.

We usually grab a 24-hour pass, hopping on and off as we please to explore different neighborhoods. Plus, seeing Paris lit up at night from the Seine on the Batobus is magical — twinkling lights and gentle water, it’s an unforgettable experience.

Arrondissements of Paris

Paris is made up of 20 arrondissements (or districts), which spiral out from the city center in what many describe as a snail-like pattern. You can easily tell which arrondissement you're in by looking at the postal code: all Paris addresses begin with 750, followed by a two-digit number that indicates the arrondissement.

For example:

• 75001 Paris → 1st Arrondissement (central, home to the Louvre)

• 75020 Paris → 20th Arrondissement (northeastern edge of the city)

Each arrondissement has its own character, vibe, and highlights. Some are bustling and historic, others are quiet and residential. It really depends on what kind of Paris you want to experience.

Over the years, I’ve made it a goal to explore as many of the arrondissements as possible. That said, I usually find myself staying in the 3rd or 4th arrondissement. These neighborhoods feel like home to me — I know the streets fairly well, the markets, the cafés, and how to get around easily. They're also well-connected by metro, walkable, and even accessible via the Seine’s water taxis.

During my 2019 trip, I made it a point to pick a new-to-me arrondissement each day and spend time just wandering. It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and surprising ways to experience the city — a little adventure and a deeper connection to Paris beyond the tourist path.

1st Arrondissement: Louvre
The heartbeat of Paris and full of tourists. It's ideal for visiting the Louvre, Palais Royal, and Les Halles. Central and iconic, but very busy.

2nd Arrondissement: Bourse (stock exchange)
This is the business district, home to the Paris Stock Exchange. It’s also become a trendy spot, full of cool boutiques and cafés.

3rd Arrondissement: Marais
One of the oldest neighborhoods in Paris — and one of our favorites. It’s charming, walkable, and dotted with small museums, galleries, and cafés.

4th Arrondissement: Hôtel-de-Ville
Closely intertwined with the 3rd, this area is rich in Jewish history and culture. It’s also near Île Saint-Louis and Île de la Cité, two of the oldest parts of the city.

5th Arrondissement: Latin Quarter
Named for the Sorbonne, where Latin was once the language of learning. Full of bookshops, international eateries, and student life. Vibrant and eclectic.

6th Arrondissement: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Once the bohemian heart of intellectual Paris, now home to high-end boutiques, galleries, and stylish cafés. It’s changed over the years, but still retains a certain charm.

7th Arrondissement: Eiffel Tower
A well-rounded area that includes the Eiffel Tower, Musée d'Orsay, Rue Cler, and Rodin Museum. It’s also home to many embassies and has a more upscale, international feel.

8th Arrondissement: Champs-Élysées
Upscale and iconic. While the Champs-Élysées is a must-see for first-timers, it’s very commercial and tourist-heavy. I usually avoid this area unless I’m in the mood for people-watching.

9th Arrondissement: Opéra
A nice balance of residential and commercial. Home to the Paris Opera, Galeries Lafayette, and Printemps — a shopping paradise.

10th Arrondissement: Canal Saint-Martin
I spent quite a bit of time here on my last visit. It’s youthful and bohemian, especially near the canal. Stick closer to the 3rd for a more relaxed vibe — the Gare du Nord area can be hectic.

11th Arrondissement: Bastille
Home to Place de la Bastille and the new Opéra. It was a bit rough around the edges in the past, but it’s evolved into a creative and artistic neighborhood. I loved exploring the shops and markets here.

12th Arrondissement: Bercy
A quiet, tree-lined, residential area near Bois de Vincennes and the Promenade Plantée — a beautiful elevated greenway that’s perfect for strolling.

13th Arrondissement: Place d’Italie
A multicultural residential area that includes Chinatown and the modern Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand. I haven’t explored it much yet, but it’s on my list.

14th Arrondissement: Montparnasse
Full of lively cafés and bars. We usually stay here when catching an early train or renting a car. Convenient and practical.

15th Arrondissement: Parc des Expositions
Mostly residential, bordering the 7th and the Seine. Quiet, local, and low on tourist traffic.

16th Arrondissement: Trocadéro
A more affluent area with stunning views of the Eiffel Tower. I haven’t spent much time here, but there’s a hidden café I like to visit for the view.

17th Arrondissement: Batignolles-Monceau
Residential and off the tourist track. I haven’t found much here for travelers, but it’s peaceful and local.

18th Arrondissement: Montmartre
Artsy, romantic, and full of charm. A small village on a hill overlooking the city. We always visit Sacré-Cœur and enjoy a lazy lunch at a street café.

19th Arrondissement: Buttes-Chaumont
Ethnically diverse and home to Parc de la Villette. More residential, with great ethnic food options and green spaces.

20th Arrondissement: Belleville
Quirky and artistic. Full of tiny shops and eateries. Home to Père Lachaise Cemetery — a stunning, tree-lined resting place that I can wander for hours.

Sleeping in Paris

My very first trip to Paris, I stayed in a charming — and very tiny — hotel. I don’t even remember the name (left bank over 30 years ago), but it had that quintessential Parisian feel. These days, when I travel for pleasure, I always rent an apartment.

I love waking up early, making coffee, and easing into the day — no rush. It’s a lovely way to feel more like a local and less like a tourist. And at the end of a long day exploring, it’s so nice to come "home" to a space where I can stretch out, relax, and either head out again for dinner or stay in and cook something simple.

Apartment Rentals

I typically book through Airbnb or The Plum Guide when staying in Paris. I’ve had great experiences with both — though with Airbnb, there have been a couple of times where the apartment was smaller or more worn than expected. Since then, I’ve learned to increase my price point just a bit, and I haven’t been disappointed.

The Plum Guide is a bit more curated, and every place I’ve stayed through them has been excellent. Highly recommend if you want a vetted experience that leans a little more luxurious without being a hotel.

Here’s a list of some favorite apartments I’ve stayed in through Airbnb and Plum Guide (I update these links often as I am always dreaming about a quick trip):

Hotels

While I prefer apartments for longer stays, sometimes a hotel is necessary — usually when we’re in Paris overnight before catching a train or a connecting flight early the next day.

Here are two hotels in Paris that I recommend:

Hotel Mistral – Montparnasse (near the train station we use to go south)

We discovered this little gem a few years ago, and it has become our go-to when we have a train to catch the next day after landing. It’s an easy ride from Charles de Gaulle Airport via train and just a short walk to Gare Montparnasse.

The rooms are small but chic — modern, hip, and incredibly clean. The sheets were soft, the coffee and tea station in the room was a lovely touch, and the vibe felt stylish without trying too hard.

What really stood out, though, was the hospitality. Romain, the assistant manager during our last stay, was an absolute delight — full of great tips on where to eat and drink in the neighborhood, as well as fascinating historical tidbits. One that stuck with me: Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre stayed here in the late 1930s.

Don’t miss the breakfast option. The breakfast room is bright and sunny, and the spread was fantastic — definitely worth it.

Location: 24, rue Cels, 75014 Paris
Best for: Easy access to Montparnasse trains, cozy comfort, a touch of history
Book it: Reservations

CitizenM Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

I normally avoid airport hotels — they tend to be overpriced and uninspired. But CitizenM CDG was a very welcome surprise. It’s just a short walk from the terminals, so it’s incredibly convenient for early flights or late arrivals. As well it is super easy to jump onto the train to pop into the city center for dinner.

The design is modern and fun, with a stylish bar, restaurant, and even a little bookshop. The rooms are compact, almost pod-like, but smartly designed and super efficient. We were traveling with bikes and a lot of bags, and the staff gladly stored everything so our space stayed comfortable.

The shower was hot, the bed cozy, and — bonus — there was in-room coffee!

Location: 3 Rue de Rome, 93290 Tremblay-en-France (within walking distance (5 minutes) from Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 3.
Best for: Late arrivals or early flights at CDG
Book it: Reservations

Eating & Drinking in Paris

Paris is a city meant for lingering over wine and sharing good food with good company. Here are a few of our favorite standout spots from our most recent trip that I still dream about — places worth adding to your list. I actually have another insane list that is too big to put here, and I need to organize it. If you need more suggestions please reach out.

The French tend to keep breakfast simple—often just something light at home or a quick stop at a café on the way out. One of the reasons I love staying in an apartment is so I can make coffee and linger in the early morning. That said, I’m a big fan of standing at the zinc (the café counter) for a quick espresso and maybe a flaky croissant.

Lunch is best enjoyed the French way: a leisurely hour (or more!) sitting at a bistro, watching the world go by. During my last visit, apéro felt like the new favorite ritual—and I happily embraced it. Typically around 4:30 or 5:00 p.m., it’s a casual moment to enjoy a glass of wine and a little nibble before dinner.

Dinner usually begins around 8:00 p.m., making for a relaxed, unhurried end to the day.

Le Grand Bain

📍 20th Arrondissement — Near Belleville Metro

Tucked into the vibrant and artsy 20th, Le Grand Bain was a major highlight of my last trip. It’s near the Belleville metro stop, but since it was summer, I walked there from my apartment in the Marais — a long but beautiful evening stroll. I Ubered home (about €10) after closing down the place with my girlfriend.

The food is Middle Eastern-inspired, served as small shared plates — which is ideal because everything was incredible and we wanted to try it all. The ingredients were seasonal, thoughtful, and impeccably prepared. I truly can’t name one standout dish because the whole meal was unforgettable. The atmosphere was casual and buzzing — perfect for a fun dinner out.

Tip: Reservations are a good idea, especially on weekends.
Address: 14 Rue Denoyez, 75020 Paris
Website: Restaurant

Au Pied de Cochon

📍 1st Arrondissement — Near Les Halles Metro

A Paris institution since 1947, Au Pied de Cochon is open 24/7 and full of old-school brasserie charm. Located near Les Halles, it’s easy to get to from Louvre-Rivoli, Les Halles, or Châtelet metro stations.

This place is famous for its traditional French fare, especially—you guessed it—the pig’s trotters (though there’s plenty more on the menu if that’s not your thing). It’s hearty, rich, and delightfully over the top in that classic brasserie way. Perfect for late-night eats or a leisurely lunch.

Tip: Come hungry, and don’t skip the onion soup.
Address: 6 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris
Website: Restaurant

Café Restaurant Louis Philippe

📍 4th Arrondissement — Near Hôtel de Ville & Cité des Arts

We discovered this cozy gem on the Seine over 18 years ago, during our very first trip to Paris as a couple. After a morning of exploring, we wanted a traditional French lunch in a spot that felt authentically local — and this place delivered.

The food is simple and homey, like a meal at a French grandmother’s house — nothing flashy but comforting and honest. Most diners here are French locals, and the prices are very reasonable. The atmosphere just oozes classic French charm, making it our go-to spot for the first lunch in Paris every trip.

Tip: Sunny day, sit outside and enjoy a long lunch French Style
Address: 66 Quai de l’hôtel de Ville 75004 Paris
Website: Restaurant

Le Tir Bouchon Montorgueil

📍 2nd Arrondissement — Near Étienne Marcel Metro

A classic French bistro with good, traditional fare at reasonable prices. The street it’s on is charming, lined with cute shops and other dining options, making it a pleasant area to explore.

We stayed in this neighborhood years ago and loved having this bistro nearby for a casual, comforting meal.

Tip: Perfect spot for a romantic date, the roasted chicken and fries is great to share.
Address: 22 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Ma Cave Fleury

📍 2nd Arrondissement — Near Réaumur-Sébastopol Metro

Back in 2009, we rented an apartment next door to this intimate champagne bar in the then rough-around-the-edges St. Denis area. Despite the neighborhood’s edginess back then, this became one of our favorite spots for daily champagne indulgence.

They focused on small, lesser-known champagne houses, helping us fall even more in love with bubbles. We try to stop by at least once on every trip now.

Tip: Charcuterie and cheese plate is the perfect companion with a bottle of bubbles.
Address: 177 rue Saint Denis, 75002, Paris France
Website: Restaurant

L'As du Fallafel

📍 4th Arrondissement — Near Saint-Paul Metro

This legendary falafel spot is on almost everyone’s Paris must-try list — and for good reason. On mornings we arrive in Paris, it’s become a tradition to drop off our bags, freshen up, and head here for a quick bite. We often start craving it before the plane even lands!

While the food is genuinely tasty and satisfying, a recent update (2019) — after some reflection — is that it’s probably not worth the hour-long wait it often commands. There are other great falafel spots in Paris that don’t require such a long queue and deliver just as well on flavor.

Tip: If you are really wanting to hit this spot, GO EARLY!
Address: 34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Breizh Café

📍 3rd Arrondissement — Near Filles du Calvaire Metro

I found Breizh Café by chance one evening in 2019 and had no idea how famous it was until my Instagram followers flooded me with questions after I posted a dinner photo. The charm of the place pulled me in — I scored a perfect window seat for some serious people watching while enjoying amazing crepes and buckwheat galettes.

My favorites were the buckwheat galette with seaweed butter (a true revelation!) and a simple sweet crepe with honey for dessert. The service was lovely, and they also sell delightful products to take home. I couldn’t resist bringing back butter and caramels as souvenirs!

Update - 2025, they have a few locations. I am sharing the one I dined at in the Marais.

Tip: If you are really wanting to hit this spot, GO EARLY!
Address: 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Camille

📍 4th Arrondissement — Near Saint Paul Metro

On a water taxi ride earlier in the day, I met a lovely older couple from the North Coast of France who’d fallen hard for Paris. They shared some of their favorite traditional, reasonably priced French spots, and Camille was one of them.

Dinner here was exactly what I was craving — a classic French bistro vibe, with a perfectly cooked steak frites and a carafe of red wine that didn’t break the bank. It felt so authentically Parisian, like stepping into a local’s neighborhood haunt.

Funny story, recently (2024) while cleaning out hard-drives of photos, I found a photo of this spot. We had gone there during our first trip to Paris as a couple - during a time when I didn't take great notes on places to go too.

Tip: Save room for dessert - the homemade cream brûlée
Address: 24 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Le Saint Regis

📍 4th Arrondissement — Ile St. Louis, near Cite des Arts Metro

We adore this cozy spot on Ile St. Louis for a pick-me-up. Whether it’s coffee in the afternoon or a glass of wine later on, Le Saint Regis has the perfect atmosphere to slow down and soak in a bit of Parisian calm.

Tip: Sit outside, the people watching is spot on
Address: 6 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Avant Comptoir de la Mer

📍 6th Arrondissement - Near Odeon Metro

For seafood lovers, this place is a dream. Known for their oysters, I had one of my most memorable lunches standing at their bar — briny, fresh oysters paired with crisp white wine. The vibe is lively and casual, and if you want to sit down, they have a full bistro next door. A true highlight of my last trip. Be sure to go inside this little spot to check out the mound of butter on the bar - almost makes me want to site there next time!

Tip: Stand-up and dine at the outdoor oyster bar on a sunny afternoon!
Address: 3 Carr de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Saisons Fromagerie

📍 3rd Arrondissement - Near Etienne Marcel and Rambuteau Metro

A beautiful cheese shop with warm service — perfect for picking up a little something special. Whether you want to nibble on the spot or take some home, Saisons Fromagerie is a treat for any cheese lover.

Tip: After nibbling on cheese and wine, pick up a couple to take home. That good!
Address: 30 rue du Grenier Saint Lazare, 75003 Paris France
Website: Restaurant

Chez Julien

📍 4th Arrondissement — Near Cite des Arts Metro

Full disclosure — we haven’t been here yet! But that same charming couple insisted Chez Julien is a must-try on our next trip. So, it’s on the list and I can’t wait to see what’s in store.

Tip: Have heard reservations are suggested.
Address: 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris, France
Website: Restaurant

Une Glace à Paris

📍 Multiple Locations — I visited the 4th Arrondissement

This ice cream shop quickly became a frequent stop near my apartment. Their unique and ever-changing flavors are what make it special — think passion fruit, bee pollen with apricot, matcha, and other inventive choices.

They also have pastries, but I was all about the ice cream, indulging in it many times during my stay. Perfect for a sweet treat while wandering the city.

Sightseeing

If this is your first trip to Paris, you absolutely have to see the must-see sights. I highly recommend booking tickets ahead of time whenever possible — it can save you hours of waiting in line. When I was in Paris in 2019 it was August, I still encountered very long waits at some places despite having pre-booked tickets. One spot was so crowded I had to leave before even going ini as the wait was too long, and I had to make it to a private museum showing elsewhere. So, be prepared to be patient — or better yet, get up early and visit popular sites first thing in the morning, which is what I should have done!

If you’re spending two weeks here, I’d recommend picking about five top sites to really savor, plus a museum or two if you’re into art and history. We usually save museum visits for hot or rainy days — a great way to stay cool and dry. On nicer days, choose a different neighborhood than where you’re staying, and just wander around. You never know what new, fun-to-you spots you’ll discover.

Here are some of our favorites:

• Eiffel Tower
  Definitely worth going all the way to the top. We love visiting toward the end of the day when the light softens, or late at night when the city sparkles below.

• Champs Élysées and Arc de Triomphe
  This is probably the most tourist-heavy part of Paris and, honestly, one of our least favorites. But if it’s your first visit, it’s worth a quick trip just to say you’ve been.

• Île de la Cité and Notre Dame
  Two of Lenny’s favorite spots, and usually one of the first places we visit. Depending on the time of day, we might enjoy a coffee at a neighborhood café or grab an ice cream from the legendary Berthillon nearby.

• Sainte-Chapelle
  Built in 1246 by King Saint Louis, this gothic chapel is a true jewel. We love getting lost inside as sunlight streams through its 15 stunning stained glass windows, flooding the chapel with color.

• Luxembourg Gardens
  One of our absolute favorite green spaces in Paris, no matter the season. Summers are perfect for lazy picnics while watching children sail little boats in the pond. Winters bring a magical quiet when the garden is dusted with the possibility of snow. Spring bursts alive with fresh scents and colors, and autumn dresses everything in golden hues.

• Père Lachaise Cemetery
  This cemetery is one of the largest and most famous in the world. It might seem like an unusual place to visit on holiday, but we find it a wonderfully peaceful way to spend an afternoon when you need a break from the city’s hustle and bustle. Plus, we're longtime fans of Serge Gainsbourg and always make a point to pay our respects.

• Sacré-Cœur
  The views from here at sunrise or sunset are breathtaking, and the basilica itself is definitely worth a walk-through. Just be mindful of your belongings — pickpockets tend to frequent the area.

• Palace of Versailles
  A fantastic day trip from Paris, easily reached by the RER train in under an hour. The grandeur and gardens of Versailles make for a stunning contrast to the city.

Picnic on the Seine

Picnicking along the Seine River in Paris is definitely a warm weather activity that should not be missed. It is one of our favorite ways to spend an evening enjoying sunset. It is also a quintessential experience, offering scenic views, historic ambiance, and a taste of local life. Here are some top spots and tips to enhance your Seine-side picnic:

Île Saint-Louis

This charming island in the heart of Paris provides a romantic setting with views of Notre-Dame Cathedral. Pick up a bottle of wine, cheese, and a baguette from local shops on the main street, and enjoy a sunset picnic by the riverbanks.

Pont des Arts

A favorite among locals and tourists alike, this pedestrian bridge offers unobstructed views of the Seine and nearby landmarks. It's a lively spot, especially in the evenings, perfect for a casual picnic with friends .

Paris Plages

During the summer months, sections of the Seine transform into temporary "beaches" complete with sand, lounge chairs, and recreational activities. It's a unique and festive environment for a picnic .

Picnic Essentials

• Baguette: From a local boulangerie.

• Cheese: Varieties like Brie, Camembert, or Comté from a fromagerie. Don’t forget knife.

• Charcuterie: Such as saucisson or pâté.

• Fruits & Vegetables: Seasonal picks from local markets.

• Pastries: Macarons, éclairs, or small tarts for something sweet.

• Beverages: Wine or sparkling water.

Best Times & Tips

• Timing: Late afternoon to early evening offers pleasant temperatures and beautiful lighting (photographers will LOVE this)

• Seating: Bring a blanket if you want a comfy spot to sprawl, or don’t mind sitting right on the stone ledges or riverside railings—just know they’re not the cleanest. Pro-tip: skip the white pants or shorts unless you want a souvenir smudge from Paris stonework.

Museums

If a museum in Paris allows you to purchase tickets ahead of time, do it! Waiting in line can be discouraging, especially during busy seasons.

Museum of the Art and History of Judaism — I stumbled upon this gem by accident on a rainy afternoon. I noticed a poster taped to an umbrella for a black-and-white film exhibit and decided to check it out. This small, intimate museum has beautiful grounds and fascinating exhibits ranging from the history of Judaism to Helena Rubinstein’s life. Tickets were very reasonable (€10 in 2019), and there was no wait even in summer. It’s definitely a spot I want to visit again.

The Louvre — You kind of have to visit the Louvre at least once, especially if it’s your first trip to Paris. The museum is enormous, and it’s easy to spend hours or even days exploring — which isn’t a bad thing, but it can be overwhelming. For a first visit, I recommend booking a tour or using one of their excellent audio guides to focus on the highlights. I have friends who have done private tours before the museum opens and say it’s fantastic. (I’ll try to find a link for that and share it with you.)

Musée d’Orsay — One of my favorite museums in Paris, I always make time to visit. When I first went at 25, it felt like a well-kept secret and was wonderfully quiet. Now it’s more popular, so plan accordingly. Housed in a former railway station built in the late 1800s, it features mostly French paintings, sculptures, and photography — an absolute must for art lovers.

Centre Pompidou — This museum showcases modern and contemporary art with special exhibits, lectures, shows, and activities for kids. The bright, colorful building is adored by children, and the outdoor space is perfect for burning off energy after a museum visit. Don’t miss the top floor for a glass of wine or coffee with fantastic views of Paris!

Musée de l’Orangerie — A beautiful gallery showcasing impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces. It’s home to Monet’s famous Water Lilies series, which are breathtaking in person. I love this spot not only for the stunning art but also for the peaceful walk through the adjacent Tuileries Gardens before or after your visit — perfect for soaking in some Parisian serenity.

Markets

Not your typical grocery stores, but rather the open-air markets scattered throughout the neighborhoods — more like vibrant farmer’s markets. These are fantastic spots for people watching and wandering at your own pace. It’s the perfect place to pick up fresh, beautiful produce or small souvenirs that capture the spirit of Paris.

Most open-air food markets operate in the mornings and close around 1–2 PM, so plan to go early. Bring a tote bag, and cash!

I have to admit, I also have a guilty pleasure for wandering aimlessly around the neighborhood supermarchés (supermarkets) as well — there’s something about seeing everyday Parisian life unfold there that’s just charming.

Some favorite open air markets include:

• Marché des Enfants Rouges — located in the 3rd Arrondissement, it’s the oldest covered market in Paris with a lovely mix of food stalls and local vendors.

• Marché Bastille — in the 11th Arrondissement and one of our personal favorites. After shopping, you can grab a coffee or beer at one of the nearby bars and settle in for some excellent people watching.

• Marché d’Aligre — located in the 12th Arrondissement, this market offers an authentic slice of Parisian life, combining culinary delights with a rich historical backdrop. Whether you're shopping for ingredients or simply soaking in the atmosphere, it's a must-visit destination in Paris. There is also a flea market attached to it.

Shopping

Rickshaw Objets du Monde — tucked inside the Passage du Grand Cerf in the 2nd Arrondissement, this is a treasure trove of beautiful things. I’ve picked up food photography props here like cutting boards, small bowls, and utensils. It’s a wonderful place to find unique and charming items.

L'Épicerie — I’m drawn to shops like this that offer beautiful household items rather than typical souvenirs. I get more joy serving a fresh salad in a bowl I bought in Paris than adding another plastic Eiffel Tower to the collection. They also carry wonderful food gifts like French jams and honey, perfect for sharing a taste of Paris with loved ones.

E. Dehillerin — a must-visit for any home cook, located near Les Halles. I’ve gone on every trip but only recently mustered the courage to buy something — copper baking pans! After a leisurely afternoon of oysters and Chenin Blanc, I finally did it. Next time, I’m getting that double boiler I’ve dreamed of for years.

Le Bon Marché — the iconic luxury department store that’s worth a visit at least once in your life. I mostly buy food items, Kure (best clean nail polish), French and British magazines, and perfume here — souvenirs that bring me great joy. Even if you don’t shop much, the space itself is stunning and worth exploring.

Ailleurs Paris — a lovely little shop in the 12th Arrondissement filled with unique household items, from dishes to lighting. It can be a bit pricey but offers some truly one-of-a-kind finds.

Merci — located in the 3rd Arrondissement, this trendy and cute store caught me by surprise. Usually, I avoid “big stores” or places I can shop online, but I ducked inside on a rainy afternoon and ended up returning the next day to pick up a few things I couldn’t stop thinking about — beautiful linens and steak knives we had been hunting for. Their personalized market bags make fun gifts. Fun, hip, and reasonably priced housewares.

Pharmacies

I’m a total sucker for European pharmacies. Even Lenny’s become a fan since I introduced him to one of my favorite European pastimes: pharmacy shopping. I first discovered their magic in my twenties, when I stumbled upon the best eye makeup remover, cake mascara, and a perfect lipstick — and I’ve been hooked ever since.

What makes them so special? For starters, they carry high-quality (and often clean) skincare products that won’t break the bank. Many of these gems are fragrance-free and free of the harsh chemicals you often find in U.S. brands. On top of that, French pharmacists are incredibly knowledgeable — many hold doctoral degrees — and they serve as a first line of healthcare. Whether you’re dealing with a rash, jet lag, digestive issues, or a cough, they’ll usually recommend effective over-the-counter remedies and take the time to explain how to use them. It’s not just helpful — it can actually save you a trip to the doctor.

Honestly, most French pharmacies are excellent. Some even specialize in areas like baby care or makeup. That said, CityPharma stands out to me as one of the best — they always seem to have everything I need.

Next Time

This list grows with every trip! It doesn’t matter if I spend one week or three in Paris — I always run out of time to do it all. Maybe we should just move there? Most of these spots come highly recommended by friends, or they’re places I’ve read about or wandered past and want to try. I know the list looks long, but you should see the notes on my phone — these plus so many more.

Food

• Chez Fernand Christine — a cozy little bistro in the 6th Arrondissement, recommended by a lovely couple I met one afternoon on the boat.

• Le Pharmacie — a French restaurant said to be amazing.

• Le Bon George — I walked by one evening after dinner, and the menu looked fantastic. It smelled incredible, too. If I hadn’t been flying out the next day, I definitely would have gone back.

• Oyster Club — oysters, oysters, oysters!

• Liza — Lebanese cuisine recommended by a foodie friend who knows her stuff — can’t wait to try it!

Coffee Break

We typically don’t seek out the fancy or hip coffee shops when in Paris—there’s just something so satisfying about standing at a le zinc, shoulder to shoulder with locals, sipping a no-nonsense espresso. That said, some of these newer coffee and bakery spots sound amazing. We may have to make an exception (or two) next time around.

• Meert — coffee and pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

• Odette — coffee stop for a quality caffeine fix.

• Maison Plisson — a charming shop and restaurant selling amazing jams and honey.

• The French Bastard — delicious bakery and good coffee.

Extras

• Rue de Bièvre — a charming street in the 5th Arrondissement, perfect for photos, and known for its beautiful light, again suggested by the same couple I met on Batobus. I love a good side street, as you never know what else you will find.

• Ofr Bookstore — I love a good bookstore when I am traveling. This is a small, quirky bookstore as well as a film venue.

• Citroën Car Tours — I always see these adorable vintage Citroëns buzzing around Paris—I completely covet one and dream of owning one someday. Despite all the time I’ve spent in Paris, I have yet to actually do a tour! A friend of mine did one a couple of years ago and said it was an absolute blast. There are a few companies offering these rides, but she especially enjoyed The Parisi Tour, which takes you on a charming journey through both famous monuments and lesser-known, secret corners of Paris. Definitely on my list for next time—because really, what could be more Parisian than cruising through the city in a classic French car?

Here are some fun videos we’ve made while traveling in Paris! Enjoy!

• Daily Life on Rue St. Denis

• Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, France