Lisbon, Portugal

A Two-Month Adventure Through Neighborhoods, Food, and Hidden Gems

This travel update is long overdue. I began rewriting my Lisbon notes back in May, just after we returned from Portugal. Then I picked them up again in November. Somewhere in between, life happened as it does. My quiet goal was to have all my Lisbon thoughts gathered and shared by 2026. So here we go.

As I mentioned in my post about Porto, this chapter already feels like it belongs in another lifetime. It was exactly a year ago this week that we decided to pack up and head to Portugal for two months. Lately, that decision has been on our minds more than usual. If you’re curious about the why behind that extended time away, I shared more of that story in my Porto post.

Getting to Lisbon

We flew from San Francisco, and while we usually prefer a nonstop, we tend to avoid TAP Portugal. Nearly everyone I know who’s flown the route from here has dealt with delays and when you’re crossing an ocean, those delays can quietly steal days from a trip. No one wants that.

We had originally planned to spend a few days in London, either at the beginning or the end of our stay, so we booked a round-trip flight to London on British Airways and then a separate one-way from London to Lisbon. At the time, we weren’t quite sure when we’d head back to London and that flexibility ended up working perfectly for this trip.

Honestly, I don’t mind connecting through London at all. The airport has plenty to offer, and British Airways has several lounges that make the wait feel less like time lost and more like a pause before the journey continues.

What to Pack

Years ago, when I worked in the travel industry, we were limited to carry-on bags only and we had to dress business casual, as we were often flying on comp flights. That experience made me a very savvy packer early on. One lesson has stayed with me all these years: you can’t go wrong sticking to a single color palette. For me, that color is black.

I tend to pack the same core pieces for just about every destination, building a small, dependable wardrobe that can shift from day to night without much effort. Over time, I’ve fine-tuned my packing so that everything works together, no excess, no “just in case” pieces that never leave the suitcase. It makes travel easier, lighter, and far more enjoyable.

Here’s what I packed for two months in Portugal as well as my FAVE Travel Carry-On Bag.

Money

Lenny usually teases me when I’m scrambling to track down foreign currency before a trip. The exchange rate at the airport is almost always garbage, and I like to land in the EU with at least €200 in my wallet.

There used to be a little gem of a spot in Berkeley where I could exchange money, but it closed. This time around, we ordered euros through our bank ahead of the trip, and they delivered everything via FedEx. I was especially glad we did, as more places than not in Portugal were cash-only.

Why the preference for cash? American credit cards come with high processing fees for merchants, and for many smaller spots, it’s simply easier to stick with euros. A little planning ahead made our time in Portugal much smoother when it came to money.

It was easy enough to find places to exchange U.S. currency once we were there. Just be aware of your surroundings when you do, as these areas are also closely watched by pickpockets. You’ll also need to have your passport with you when exchanging U.S. dollars for euros.

Language

While English is fairly common especially in tourist areas, most locals still speak their native language. A little effort goes a long way, and there are plenty of helpful language apps that make navigating day-to-day moments much easier.

Two of my favorites are Google Translate, which is especially helpful for menus and signs, and Duolingo, a fun way to pick up a few basic phrases.

Getting Around

From the airport to our apartment, we used an Uber, which was both easy and surprisingly affordable compared to what we’re used to at home.

Walking is the best way to get around Lisbon. You really do not need a car, and parking is not only a headache but expensive. We only rented one when we decided to explore outside the city for a few days. The rest of the time, we walked everywhere, Lisbon is incredibly walkable; or we used Bolt, the tram system, and occasionally the subway or train.

One small note: Lisbon is hilly. Very hilly. Comfortable, well-broken-in shoes are essential, especially if you plan to spend your days wandering neighborhoods and getting a little lost on purpose. Stylish shoes are great, but your feet will thank you for choosing comfort first.

Trains and the Subway

Purchase a 24-hour public transport pass at a metro or train station for about €7. This pass covers unlimited rides on trains, ferries, metros, buses, and even the iconic Tram 28, super convenient for exploring Lisbon. Here is the site for schedules and pricing.

I’m a sucker for a good train station (Rossio was a favorite), and here are a few notables and where they service:

📍 Rossio Station (Estação do Rossio)

• Location: Heart of Baixa / historic center

• Best For: Direct trains to Sintra and Cascais

• Vibe: Beautiful, historic architecture

📍 Santa Apolónia (Estação de Santa Apolónia)

• Location: Eastern edge of the city center, near Alfama

• Best For: Main terminus for long-distance trains from the north (like Porto)

• Connections: Metro (Blue Line) and trams

📍 Gare do Oriente (Oriente Station)

• Location: Modern Parque das Nações area

• Best For: Major intermodal hub; direct Metro (Red Line) to the airport, long-distance trains, buses

Neighborhoods

We spent a lot of time exploring Lisbon, and tried to approach our visit with a “we live here” mindset. Of all the areas we wandered through, three neighborhoods really felt like places we could imagine actually living in. Each is conveniently located, about a 15- to 30-minute walk from Lisbon’s central area, making it easy to soak up local life while staying connected to the heart of the city.

Príncipe Real

Our apartment was in Príncipe Real, and we absolutely loved it. We were so pleasantly surprised by just how great it really was, friendly, vibrant, and full of life. The neighborhood is a wonderful mix: charming gardens and parks, local art, excellent restaurants, and families going about their daily routines. A really nice Farmer’s Market on Saturday. Everything feels approachable yet dynamic. And the best part? You can easily walk to the center of Lisbon in 15–20 minutes, making it feel like the perfect balance of neighborhood life and city access.

São Bento

São Bento feels like the “in-between” zone, nestled between Príncipe Real and the heart of Lisbon. It has a cool, slightly newer vibe, with plenty of restaurants, wine bars, and small shops to explore. Fun fact: we actually stayed here 14 years ago, long before it became known as São Bento or gained its current popularity. We also have friends from Scotland who bought a condo in the neighborhood and absolutely love it.

We walked through often during our stay and still really enjoyed the atmosphere, easygoing, lively, and just a 10-minute walk to the center. It’s the kind of place that feels comfortable for both a short visit and, potentially, living like a local.

Campo de Ourique

We didn’t spend much time in Campo de Ourique just a couple of days when we wandered over for lunch, but we really enjoyed the neighborhood’s charm. A beautiful park, Jardim da Estrela, separates it from São Bento/Estrela and adds a lovely green space for strolling.

The area has a true neighborhood feel, with locals still going about their daily lives. One thing we noticed and appreciated is that Portugal protects housing for residents in its cities, so you’ll see a lot of older locals enjoying the streets and cafés, a gentle, authentic slice of everyday life that makes the neighborhood feel lived-in and welcoming.

Rest of Lisbon Neighborhoods

Here aer other areas that may be of interest to stay in during a trip to Lisbon. I will not cover Alcântara, Ajuda or Olivais as they are all a bit far from what most people want to see in Lisbon. As well as felt a couple of these areas were still a little “too up and coming”. Maybe give them another 3 - 5 years.

Alfama

Alfama is Lisbon’s old Moorish quarter, dreamy on paper, and truly worth wandering through. We spent many days exploring its winding streets, hidden squares, and colorful façades.

But would I stay there? Only if the taxi or Uber can get close to where I am staying. Every time we visited, we saw tourists lugging their suitcases up and down steep hills, hunting for their rentals. Even our Portuguese friends, who have stayed in the area, cited the same complaint: the uphill luggage haul is no joke. Alfama is magical for exploring, but consider carefully if you’re planning to stay overnight.

Baixa, Chiado & Bairro Alto

I kind of felt like these areas all run together, blink, and you might find yourself in a new neighborhood without even realizing it. It’s hard to say where one begins and another ends - ha!

These neighborhoods are all very centrally located, right in the heart of Lisbon where the city’s pulse really beats. Think big shops, well-known restaurants, plenty of hotels, and trams rattling through the streets. And yet, amidst the bustle, the charm of old-world tiled buildings still shines through. This is very much “downtown Lisbon”, lively, energetic, and full of character.

Sleeping

Since we were spending two months in Portugal, we rented an apartment, something we often do when traveling personally. It gives a much stronger “we live here” vibe. Plus, I love having the option to make coffee in the morning or enjoy a bottle of wine with cheese and bread at the end of the day, with a comfortable space to sit and relax.

At first, we rented a two-bedroom apartment for the first two weeks. It was more space than two people really needed, but the price was unbeatable. We loved both the apartment itself and its convenient location in Príncipe Real, so we ended up renting it for the rest of our stay in Lisbon. I also made a list of other apartments that looked interesting in the neighborhoods we enjoyed, just in case this one wasn’t available.

Another apartment I came across that looks beautiful is Baixa House, located in the Baixa area. The property offers stunning, centrally located apartments that feel warm and inviting, almost as if you’re staying with a friend who pays attention to every little detail.

Hotels

If you decide not to go the apartment route, here are a few hotels that caught my eye. If you reach out, I’d be happy to help you book these (and more) with the possibility of some fun perk; think room upgrades, breakfasts, hotel credit, and little extras that make a stay even more special.

• Memmo Príncipe Real – A Design Hotel property, this hidden treasure is tucked behind a narrow entrance off the main road. Step inside and you’re greeted with one of the most spectacular panoramic views over Lisbon, right from the hotel entrance. We watched a few sunsets from this area, it’s magical. I didn’t tour the property in person, but online it looks gorgeous, with modern touches that I love. There’s also a stunning pool that would be perfect during the summer months.

• Memmo Alfama – Another Design Hotel property, located in Lisbon’s old Moorish quarter. If staying in this iconic neighborhood is a must for you, this hotel is a great option as cars can pull up for drop-offs, so no hauling luggage up the hills. We walked by a few times, and I loved the space so much I checked it out online. The design is modern, simple, and contemporary, exactly my style.

• Convento do Carmo (IHG Property) – This hotel has a lovely lobby area, which we discovered while sheltering from a sudden downpour. We ended up hanging out for a while, enjoying the gorgeous space, and I later looked into the rooms. They are simple yet tastefully designed, with a classic hotel feel. The location is unbeatable if you want to be right in the middle of everything.

Markets in Lisbon

Lisbon is full of vibrant markets, each with its own personality, and wandering through them is one of my favorite ways to feel the city’s energy. Here are a few we enjoyed.

• Mercado de Campo de Ourique – A lively neighborhood market with very fresh products, from colorful fruits and vegetables to fragrant herbs and spices. You can also pick up prepared foods, perfect for a casual lunch or a picnic in one of the nearby parks. The hum of locals chatting and vendors calling out their daily specials makes it feel like a true slice of Lisbon life. Open every day until 2 PM, it’s a great stop to experience local flavors and energy.

• Time Out Market – Bustling and slightly touristy, this market is still fun to wander. In the mornings, small farm stands sell fresh produce, and prepared foods are available throughout the day. Walking through, the aroma of pastries, grilled seafood, and coffee fills the air. We didn’t eat here, but it was enjoyable to watch the flow of people and see the vibrant displays of local products.

• Mercado Biológico – If you love a good farmer’s market, this one in our Príncipe Real neighborhood is a must. Held every Saturday from 9 AM to 3 PM in Parque Príncipe Real, the stalls are overflowing with homemade breads, cheeses, fresh produce, local honey, and gorgeous flowers. The prices are unbeatable, and the quality and freshness are extraordinary. Walking through, you can almost taste the care and pride in every stall, it’s a perfect Saturday morning ritual. Go Early.

Specialized Markets

Lisbon also has some fantastic specialized markets, perfect for discovering high-quality local products:

• Manteigaria Silva – A high-quality Portuguese market with an excellent selection of cod and other local specialties. We stumbled upon it one day while caught in a rainstorm and ducked inside to stay dry and were so glad we did. It’s located in the Baixa area and feels like a true neighborhood gem.

• Pérola do Arsenal – This market offers a range of Portuguese items and, of course, lovely salt cod. One of the original cod fish markets still in operation, it’s located on Rua do Arsenal and is a great spot to experience an authentic slice of Lisbon’s culinary history.

• Queijaria Cheese Shop – Located in Príncipe Real, this cheese shop has one of the best selections of Portuguese cheeses we saw anywhere. Sadly we did not discover until a couple of weeks before heading home. A must-visit for cheese lovers, whether you’re planning a picnic or just want to taste your way through Portugal’s rich dairy offerings.

Where We Ate

Restaurants

📍 Taberna da Rua das Flores – Chiado
Cash only. Traditional Portuguese with a twist in a small, charming space we loved. We went three times and felt like we tried nearly everything. Don’t miss the garlic shrimp, squid (Lulu), miso scallops, and octopus. Great for a leisurely lunch.
Address: Rua das Flores 103, 1200‑194 Lisbon

📍 Bar Alimentar – Príncipe Real
Beautiful space, with lovely staff. Small seasonal plates, everything from seafood to beef tongue. We went three times and had everything on the menu except the tongue. Really liked the creamy risotto as well as crudo. Dessert was just okay - I would go to the gelato spot near the park, that is up the street, not the one next to the restaurant (it was not as good). They offer vegetarian options too. The vibe is warm and buzzing, perfect for dates or dinner with friends.
Address: Rua Nova da Piedade 62, 1200‑299 Lisbon

📍 Meia Porta – Bica
Fantastic find (we wish we’d discovered it sooner - literally walked by one night, and we loved the look of the space and it smelled amazing. Tiny and cozy. Three guys working the main floor, with a cook in the back. Everything was really good! Mixed pickles, lettuce with anchovies, smashed roots béarnaise, chicken gizzards, pumpkin rice (pairs perfect with the gizzards), prawns with garlic, cod and potatoes and the sweet and cold rice for dessert. Great for date night or with a group of friends.
Address: Tv. do Alcaide 22A, 1200-123 Lisbon

📍 Lisbon Tu e Eu – Alfama
We walked by one day and saw someone loving the grilled octopus dish, and ended up eating here on our last day. Large portions, slow service (one server + two cooks), but worth the wait. Don’t miss the grilled octopus and their award‑winning rice pudding for dessert. I would definitely go more often if I lived there - just order a glass of wine and chill..
Address: R. da Adiça 58, 1100‑116 Lisbon, Portugal

📍 Pica Pau – Príncipe Real
We walked by this place almost everyday, but did not stop until the end of our trip, which is too bad. It was fantastic. Modern takes on Portuguese classics with bold flavors: gizzard stew, fried cod cakes, scrambled eggs with asparagus, and shrimp with rice. The egg meringue dessert is outstanding - save room.
Address: R. da Escola Politécnica 27, 1200‑244 Lisbon, Portugal

📍 A Cevicheria – Príncipe Real
You have seen this spot on every social media sight there is - people stop just to take a photo of the giant octopus, and they do not stay for the food. Too bad for them! Peruvian spot with fabulous ceviche and Pisco Sours. A great break from Portuguese food with a lively neighborhood vibe.
Address: R. Dom Pedro V 129, 1250‑096 Lisbon

📍 Cervejaria Ramiro – Graça
A classic Lisbon favorite (and yes, it can feel touristy), but it’s worth the visit for seafood. Clams with garlic, shrimp with garlic, and scarlet shrimp are standouts. Save room for a prego sandwich instead of dessert which was only blah.
Address: Av. Almirante Reis 1 H, 1150‑007 Lisbon

📍 Gambrinus – Baixa
Old Portuguese spot (opened 1936) with traditional fare. Sit at the bar for a glass of wine with croquettes, garlic shrimp, and a prego. Skip dessert but get the coffee service - blew our minds! Bread soup looked amazing (next time!). Reservations recommended for a table, had no problem getting bar seats.
Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 23, 1150-264 Lisbon

📍 Casa dos Passarinhos – Campo de Ourique
Very traditional Portuguese, from the space to the menu. Great garlic shrimp and a seafood rice dish we loved. We definitely wish we had returned.
Address: R. Silva Carvalho 195, 1250-249 Lisbon

📍 Lama Lo – Príncipe Real
Recommended by our tour guide! Best falafels we’ve ever had, huge, moist, and flavorful. Schnitzel and hummus are also delicious. They have a location (the original) in Alfama as well.
Address: R. Nova da Piedade 34, 1200‑298 Lisbon, Portugal

📍 Hummusbar – Near Mercado de Campo de Ourique
A nice Middle Eastern alternative with hummus, falafel, and cold beers, and live music on some evenings.
Address: Mercado, R. Coelho da Rocha, 1350‑075 Lisbon, Portugal

📍 Astro Ramen – Príncipe Real
Tiny, cozy spot with authentic ramen (and super delicious). Only a few menu options. Go early, as it fills up fast.
Address: R. Nova da Piedade 101, 1200‑817 Lisbon, Portugal

📍 Sea Me – Lisbon
We had an amazing seafood dinner here with a friend, right on the Baixa-Chiado border. The concept blends a traditional Portuguese fishmonger, a seafood restaurant, and a touch of Japanese influence all in one space.

Fresh fish is displayed market-style; you choose what you want, how you’d like it prepared, and any sides to go with it. Everything was incredibly fresh and felt both classic and innovative at the same time.

We loved it so much we tried to go back before heading home, but couldn’t get in. Reservations are highly recommended.

Address: Rua do Loreto 21, 1200-241 Lisboa, Portugal

📍 Marquise da Móbler – Príncipe Real
Sadly, we discovered this bakery during our last week in Lisbon—I have a feeling they may have been closed earlier in our trip. Regardless, it was a great find. They offer outstanding pastries (very French-inspired), along with beautiful crusty whole grain breads that can be sliced to order—and you can even buy half a loaf (genius). They also sell roasted coffee beans, which we didn’t get a chance to try but definitely will next time.

Address: Rua Nova da Piedade 29–33, Lisbon, Portugal.

Bifanas

📍 Bifanas do Afonso – Baixa
Worth the wait! The first time we arrived around 1 PM, we had to wait about 30 minutes. Next time we went around 11 AM and didn’t wait too long. No tables, just stand or grab a seat in the little square area. Known for their beef sandwiches; add chili oil to really kick it up.
Address: R. da Madalena 146, 1100-340 Lisbon

📍 Casa Bifana – Baixa/Chiado
A mix of locals and tourists. Good, but we found it slightly less memorable than Bifanas do Afonso.
Address: Praça da Figueira 7A, 1100-240 Lisbon

📍 O Trevo – Baixa
Our favorite the first time we visited in 2014. This time it tied with Casa Bifana for our top pick. Mostly locals, few tourists; Anthony Bourdain liked this spot! Felt like a true neighborhood spot, though we might have enjoyed it even more without the smokers next to us.
Address: Praça Luís de Camões 48, 1200-283 Lisbon

Pastel de Nata

Ask for the warm ones! I like mine a little more charred, and Lenny doesn’t. We tried them all, and these were our top three favorites:

📍 Manteigaria – Various Locations
Lenny’s favorite, and they have locations all over Portugal. Ask for the warm ones with a slightly burnt top for maximum flavor. A classic must-try for any pastel de nata lover.
Address: Rua do Loreto 2, 1200‑108 Lisbon (Chiado location - we went all the time)

📍 Castro – Chiado
My personal favorite, there’s a hint of lemon in the custard that I love. Again, ask for the warm ones with a slightly burnt top. Perfect for a sweet snack while wandering the neighborhood.
Address: Rua Garrett 107, 1200‑203 Lisbon

📍 Santo António – Alfama
Very good, especially convenient if you’re in the Alfama area. More of a local spot. And yes, always ask for them warm!
Address: RR. do Milagre de Santo António 10, 1100-351 Lisbon

Coffee

📍 The Coffee Corner - Campo de Ourique
Had coffee here a couple of times. Strong cappuccinos and a lovely atmosphere with beautiful ceramics, definitely a charming spot to start the day.
Address: R. Infantaria 16 9A, 1250-248 Lisbon

📍 Dramático – Príncipe Real
Near the Botanical Gardens, this spot serves good coffee at reasonable prices. A cozy neighborhood option.
Address: R. da Alegria 41E, 1250-006 Lisboa, Portugal

📍 Clube Caffeine – Anjos Area
Coffee, vinyl records, and even wine, perfect for a unique Lisbon experience.
Address: R. Jacinta Marto 6, 1150-191 Lisbon

📍 Acento Coffee – Near Banksy Museum
A good spot for coffee while exploring the nearby art and street installations.
Address: Av. Casal Ribeiro 53A, 1000-091 Lisbon

📍 Buna – Santos - São Bento
A great neighborhood coffee shop serving excellent espresso and small bites.
Address: Rua Poços Dos Negros 168, R de S. Bento 3, 1200-267 Lisbon

📍 Café A Brasileira – Chiado
Lisbon’s oldest coffee shop (est. 1905). Writers and artists used to hang here. Beautiful space with great people watching and fantastic street performers outside in the afternoon. The coffee is good, but more about the experience, worth it for the ambiance. A bit pricey compared to other spots.
Address: R. Garrett 120 122, 1200-205 Lisbon

📍 Fora – (Near Tram 28 Line)
We discovered this tiny nook while caught in a sudden rainstorm along the Tram 28 line. French-style pastries and excellent coffee. Croissants rivaled those in Paris. Highly recommended for a hidden gem experience.
Address: Calçada de São Vicente 95, 1100-568 Lisbon

Wine Bars

📍 Black Sheep – Príncipe Real
Located in our neighborhood, and we went often. Great vibes, friendly staff, and a fantastic wine selection. You tell them what you like, and they let you taste three options before picking the one you want. Wine by the glass (or bottle). If the weather is nice, they provide plastic glasses so you can grab a wine and sit in the park across the street, it’s quite the scene!
Address: Praça das Flores 62, 1200-192 Lisbon

Cocktails

📍 Midnight Espresso – Príncipe Real
Cute little spot, dark and cozy, with delicious cocktails. The couple who own it are adorable and make the experience extra special. Great date night spot.
Address: R. Cecílio de Sousa 1A, 1200-098 Lisbon

Sightseeing

Tours

📍 Tours with Igor – Lisbon
We did two tours with Igor, who grew up in Lisbon. The first was a historical Lisbon tour, perfect for your first day to get the lay of the land. The second focused on local street art; Igor is an artist and knows so much about the scene. Both tours were fantastic and gave us a deeper appreciation for the city.
Igor’s Lisbon Tours

Sites & Museums

📍 Castelo de São Jorge – Lisbon
Historic castle with incredible views over Lisbon. Worth wandering around the grounds, exploring the small museum, and of course, watching the peacocks roam freely—there are so many! Here is a great walking tour that includes entrance to the castle.

📍 Belém Tower – Belém
We went to photograph it but didn’t go inside because it was packed and requires tickets. Several people we spoke with said it’s worth visiting—maybe the boys will enjoy it.

📍 Jerónimos Monastery – Belém
The Jerónimos Monastery is a former monastery of the Order of Saint Jerome, set near the Tagus River in the Belém neighborhood, just a short walk from Belém Tower. We spent a couple of hours here on our first trip to Lisbon back in 2014 and absolutely loved it. The architecture is stunning, ornate, grand, and full of detail that draws you in at every turn.

If you have the time, I highly recommend visiting with a guide. Learning about the history and significance of the monastery adds so much depth to the experience and makes it even more memorable.

📍 Banksy Museum – Lisbon
A must for street art fans—all Banksy, all the time. A fun and unusual experience.

📍 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Lisbon
Beautiful modern museum with stunning gardens. Perfect for a rainy afternoon, with plenty of spots to sit, admire art, and soak in the peaceful setting.

📍 National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo) – Lisbon
Very interesting if you love decor and gorgeous tiles. Nearby is the gallery Under Dog, which we didn’t get to but heard is excellent. You could easily make a full day exploring both.

📍 Foundation Amália Rodrigues – Lisbon
Her house preserved as it was when she passed, with her parrot still alive and present! They also host Fado in the garden on Saturdays, book early if you want to attend. This was a highlight on a lazy Saturday afternoon.

Tram 28

📍 Tram 28 – Lisbon
You have to ride it at least once, it’s an essential Lisbon experience.

Tips:

• Tickets: Don’t buy individual tram tickets (€3.50+ each way per person). Instead, purchase a 24-hour public transport pass at a metro or train station like Rossio (~€7). This pass covers unlimited rides on trams (including the iconic 28), metro, buses, and even ferries.

• Start Early: Lines for Tram 28 are crazy even in winter, and even worse in summer. Avoid boarding at Martim Moniz, the main starting point, unless you love waiting. We once stood in line for 1.5 hours and eventually gave up, and it started raining.

• Secret Tip: Head to Praça Luís de Camões instead. Grab a warm pastel de nata at Manteigaria and hop on from there, the line is usually much shorter.

And yes, make sure it’s Tram 28! This legendary route winds through some of Lisbon’s most charming and historic neighborhoods.

Sunsets & Cocktails

📍 Miradouro de Santa Catarina – Lisbon
We watched a couple of sunsets here back in 2014. This time, we went on a Sunday afternoon when it was warm for beers, people watching, and enjoying the views. Perfect spot to soak in the Lisbon vibe.

Other areas and rooftops that are supposed to be great for sunsets and drinks (though it rained most of our stay this trip):

• Memmo Alfama Terrace

• V Rooftop Bar

• Memmo Príncipe Real

• Park Rooftop

• Chapito a Mesa

• Lost in Esplanada Bar

Neighborhood Explorations

📍 Marvila – Lisbon
The new “cool” area of Lisbon! We took a Bolt to get there. Former warehouses now filled with art spaces, shops, wine, and beer. We tasted great wine at Wine Bar 160 and purchased more at their really cool shop Cuba 160, built inside an old concrete wine tank. Grabbed dim sum for a nice lunchtime change-up. Highly recommend exploring this creative district. There was a fado exhibit we really wanted to see but ran out of time - hoping it is still there.

📍 Alfama – Lisbon
When wandering through Alfama, look for the plaques of black-and-white photography featuring older residents on building walls, a beautiful exhibit by Camilla Watson. I LOVE it so much! We even met one of the featured grannies, who makes Ginga and sells it from her doorway. Truly a unique, authentic experience (Igor will surely introduce you on his tour).

📍 LXFactory – Alcântara
We visited on a Sunday afternoon. Cool street art and a couple of galleries, plus a film-developing shop (though it was closed when we were there). By 1 PM, the space was packed with tourists and mostly English-speaking visitors, so we grabbed a beer and some Middle Eastern food and called it a day. Might skip next time unless needing something specific from one of the shops such as the book store Ler Devagar (picked up some fantastic Portuguese photography books)

📍 Belém – Lisbon
We went to Belém mainly because we had the car for another day, and to photograph the iconic Belém Tower and soak in the historic waterfront area. Even if you don’t go inside the tower, the surrounding neighborhood is full of beautiful architecture, riverside views, and plenty of spots to grab a pastel de nata at the famous Pastéis de Belém. A perfect area for strolling, photography, and taking in Lisbon’s history. If you want to go in, book tickets ahead of time as it was sold out (in March). Next time I am thinking of renting e-bikes and taking the coastal ride out there - would be a fun day, wouldn’t it?

Fado

Traditional neighborhoods for Fado in Lisbon are Alfama and Mouraria, both known for their deep roots in the music and culture.

Hot Tip: You are expected to be quiet when Fado is being performed in Fado houses; no talking during songs. It’s part of the respect for the music and the performers, and adds to the overall experience.

📍 Real Fado – Lisbon
We attended a show in a 19th-century water tank, it was a unique experience. The music was great, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants nearby to make a full evening of it. They have three show locations; we also considered The Pavilhão Chinês, which looked fun, but discovered it too late.

📍 A Tasca do Chico – Lisbon
This was our first introduction to Fado in Lisbon, tucked into the Bairro Alto. The space is tiny and intimate, you may even find yourself sharing a table with people you don’t know (gasp!). It feels very Portuguese, with flags draped along the walls and portraits of famous Fado singers, some of whom stop in unannounced, especially on weekends.

We went during the week when amateur singers perform, and they were incredibly good. The food was okay; I would recommend sticking to appetizers and drinks rather than a full meal. Doors open around 7pm and there is usually a line, so get there early. Once it’s full, that’s it, no more guests. The show typically starts around 9pm, and there are no reservations.

📍 Tasca do Jaime d’Alfama – Lisbon
We stumbled upon this spot during our first trip to Lisbon in 2014. It was an unusually warm Sunday afternoon in February, and we were wandering Alfama one last time - heading home the next day - when we heard Fado drifting out onto the street. We had been searching for it all week.

We ended up having the best afternoon in this tiny, intimate space, drinking cold beers, snacking on croquettes, and listening to some of the best Fado. We were told that many of the performers were well-known in the local community and often pop in on weekends, which made the experience feel even more special.

Next Time

Cocktails

📍 Mini Bar – Bairro Alto
Recommended by several people, though we didn’t get a chance to visit. Supposed to be excellent for cocktails.
Address: R. Nova da Trindade 18, 1200-235 Lisbon

📍 Tricky’s – Lisbon
We couldn’t get a reservation, but cocktails are said to be top-notch. Worth keeping on your list for next time.

Address: Rua da Boavista 112, 1200-262 Lisbon

Wine Bars

📍 Boavista Social Club – Lisbon
I spotted this on a TV food show, and while it’s both a restaurant and wine bar, most people seem to go for the wine and snacky dishes rather than a full meal. They also play great vinyl. It feels like a great casual stop for a glass (or two) and a few bites.

Address: Rua da Boavista 16, 1200-275 Lisboa, Portugal.

Eating

📍 Café São Bento – Lisbon
I’ve been reading about this spot in a few publications lately—it’s said to serve one of the best grilled steaks in Lisbon and has been a bit of an institution for over 40 years. From the photos, both the food and the interior look fantastic—classic, timeless, and old-school Portuguese in the best way.

It feels like the kind of place you save for a special occasion, a cozy, memorable night out, or a long leisurely lunch. Reservations are highly recommended.

Address: R. de São Bento 212, 1200-821 Lisboa, Portugal.

Pastel de Nata

📍 Alcoa - Lisbon

📍Aloma - Lisbon

📍 Pastelaria Careca - Lisbon

📍 Pastelaria Nilde - Lisbon

Sights

📍 MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology – Belém
We didn’t go inside as it was closed, but we walked around and photographed the striking modern architecture after visiting Belém. The building itself is worth seeing, and the riverside location makes for a beautiful stroll and some great photo opportunities.

📍 Underdog Gallery – Near Marvila
We didn’t make it this trip, saving it for next time. Our guide Igor said it’s worth checking out. The National Tile Museum is also nearby, so you could make a full day of it.

Fado

📍 Maria da Mouraria – Lisbon
Maria da Severa is considered the mother of Fado, a tavern singer who helped popularize the musical style in the 19th century. Sadly, she died young at just 26. This Fado spot is set in her former home in the Mouraria neighborhood, which makes the experience feel even more special and rooted in history.

Many talented performers take the stage here, sharing their love of Fado in an intimate setting (it looks absolutely adorable). We tried to get in but it was sold out, reservations are definitely a must. The price includes both dinner and the show, making it a full evening experience.

📍 Mesa de Frades – Lisbon
Another spot in Alfama that is supposed to be wonderful. I had my eye on this one as it’s set inside a former palace chapel, with beautiful tiles that actually survived the 1755 earthquake, such an incredible piece of history.

It’s a fixed-price menu with the Fado performance included, making it a full evening experience. Reservations are a must.

📍 Dona Amália Restaurante Casa de Fado – Lisbon
We didn’t make it here ourselves, but a friend highly recommended it and said it was excellent. Definitely one we would consider for next time.